Continuing the dragonfly theme I decided to tackle the first of my #2018makenine garments – the Libellule dress/shirt by I Am Patterns (Libellule being French for dragonfly). Not one to make life easy for myself I had decided that I wanted to make this pattern as a jacket. A lined jacket!
After making a toile, which was pretty much size perfect, I only made the following tweaks:
- Widened the bicep area slightly as the jacket would need to be worn over other clothes
- Increased the depth of both the collar and cuffs as I felt this would be more ‘jackety’
At this point I’ve got to be honest and say that there were two disappointments with the pattern. The first was that, although printed on paper instead of tissue, the pattern pieces overlapped which meant you needed to trace it off. The second were the instructions – to be fair the pattern is aimed at intermediate sewists but had I not made a coat before I think I would have struggled with the basic instructions, particularly for attaching the collar. Overall the pattern is brilliantly drafted, I just expected a little more value for money.
Next came figuring out how to add the lining. Fortunately the lovely Claire Starkey at Guthrie and Ghani gave me some excellent advice at the Sew Many Resolutions party in January. This basically involved using the existing bodice and sleeve pattern pieces as a template, working out which jacket seam your lining is going to be sewn onto and reducing the lining pattern piece accordingly.
In addition to the lining I also added some woven interfacing to the collar and the jacket facings (I extended the left hand side bodice facing to allow for a good width of interfacing to be applied and then hidden when folded, the right hand facing was wide enough as it included the placket for the buttons). I’d previously done a stupid amount of research on interfacings for my Vogue V9136 coat so I stuck with the same Vilene V700 medium weight woven iron on interfacing from the Plush Addict ebay shop. It’s great stuff for lightweight coats, although you do need to iron it on very well to make it adhere fully.
I’d already decided on the fabric – a pink light weight wool-blend bought from Rosenberg’s at the Great British Sewing Bee. I love the colour and pattern, and the fact it was an utter bargain!
The final touch were the metal buttons – 5 small and 1 large for the collar sourced from Push the Button.
I really enjoyed making this jacket – although I did stay up till 1am the night before my birthday to finish it – I was determined to wear it to my day trip to Islington to visit Sew Over It and Ray Stitch! Trying to figure out the automatic buttonholer on my new sewing machine at that time in the morning nearly finished me off, especially when it kept sewing tiny buttonholes (lesson learnt – do not have fabric touch the buttonhole lever when it’s doing it’s thang).
It was well worth it though!